Save The first time I made cepelinai, my hands were shaking as I shaped those potato dumplings—not from nerves, but from the sheer cold of wringing out potato after potato at my grandmother's kitchen sink on a winter morning in Vilnius. She stood beside me, quietly correcting my grip, showing me how to seal each dumpling so the filling wouldn't escape into the water. That day, watching them bob to the surface of simmering water like small golden boats, I understood why this dish had survived generations. It wasn't fancy or quick, but it was honest and deeply, unmistakably Lithuanian.
I made these for my partner on a quiet Sunday, and halfway through cooking, the steam from the pot fogged up the kitchen window so completely that we couldn't see outside anymore. It felt like the world had disappeared, and it was just us, the sizzling bacon on the stove, and the smell of sour cream and dill that seemed to wrap around everything. When we sat down to eat, neither of us spoke much—we didn't need to.
Ingredients
- Starchy potatoes (1.5 kg raw, peeled): The backbone of every dumpling; choose russets or similar varieties that will give you a fluffy, cohesive dough when grated and squeezed.
- Boiled and mashed potatoes (2 medium): These add binding power and a tender crumb that raw potatoes alone can't achieve.
- Salt (1 tsp for dumplings): Taste the dough before you finish shaping; cepelinai need good seasoning to shine.
- Potato starch (1 tbsp, optional): This is your insurance policy—it prevents the dough from getting too sticky and helps everything hold together, especially if your potatoes are watery.
- Ground pork and beef (250g and 150g): The combination gives depth; all pork alone tastes thinner, and all beef can feel too heavy.
- Onion and garlic (1 small onion, 1 clove): Mince them fine so they distribute evenly through the filling and cook through in the time the dumpling spends in water.
- Bacon or smoked pork belly (150g, diced): Don't skip this; it's what makes the sauce sing and turns a simple dish into something memorable.
- Sour cream (300ml): Use full-fat, never low-fat; it breaks and curdles too easily when heated.
- Fresh dill (1 tbsp, chopped): Add it at the very end so it stays bright green and tastes fresh rather than cooked down to nothing.
Instructions
- Squeeze Out Every Drop:
- Grate your raw potatoes and gather them in cheesecloth or a clean towel—then squeeze like you mean it, because every drop of liquid you remove means dough that won't fall apart. Let the liquid you've collected sit for a few minutes, then carefully pour off the water and scoop the starchy sediment from the bottom into your potato mixture; that starch is liquid gold for binding.
- Build Your Dough:
- Combine your squeezed raw potatoes, the mashed boiled potatoes, salt, and that reserved starch in a large bowl and mix until you have something that holds together—it should feel like soft playdough, not wet clay. If it's still too loose, add a bit more starch, a teaspoon at a time.
- Blend Your Filling:
- In a separate bowl, combine pork, beef, chopped onion, minced garlic, salt, and pepper; don't overmix, but make sure the seasonings and aromatics are distributed evenly throughout.
- Shape with Wet Hands:
- Wet your hands so the dough won't stick, grab a portion about the size of a large egg, flatten it into a thin patty, add a heaping tablespoon of filling to the center, then gently pull the edges up and over and seal them firmly so no filling peeks out. These dumplings will expand slightly as they cook, so make sure you've sealed them well or you'll end up with meat floating in the pot.
- Cook Gently, Watch Carefully:
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle, lazy simmer—not a rolling boil, which will tear your dumplings apart—then slide them in carefully in batches so they have room to move. They'll sink at first, then bob to the surface after about 15 minutes; once they float, give them another 10–15 minutes to become firm and fully cooked through.
- Make Your Sauce:
- While dumplings cook, fry your diced bacon in a skillet over medium heat until the edges turn crispy and the fat renders out, then add the chopped onion and let it turn soft and golden. Reduce the heat to low, pour in the sour cream, sprinkle in fresh dill, and stir gently just until everything is warm and combined; never let it boil, or the cream will break.
- Bring It All Together:
- Fish the dumplings out of the water with a slotted spoon, arrange them on a plate, and spoon that warm bacon and sour cream sauce generously over the top.
Save Years later, I watched my own child shape their first cepelinai, their small hands mimicking mine, and I realized this dish is more than potato and meat—it's a conversation across time, a way of saying I belong somewhere. Every meal I make becomes part of something larger than the moment.
The Starch Question
If you skip the potato starch entirely because you think squeezing the potatoes thoroughly is enough, you're gambling—and potatoes, especially if they've been sitting around for a few days or weren't starchy to begin with, can betray you. The starch acts like an invisible net, holding everything together so your dumplings stay whole and tender instead of absorbing water and becoming dense. I learned this the hard way, fishing apart a dumpling in the water to find it hollow and falling to pieces inside. Now I always reserve that starch.
Meat Filling Variations That Work
Cepelinai are forgiving when it comes to the filling, which means you can adjust based on what you have or what you prefer. All pork is traditional and lighter; all beef gives a deeper, richer taste. Some cooks add a small potato cube to the filling for extra tenderness, while others slip in a piece of caramelized onion for sweetness. For a vegetarian version, sauté mushrooms and onions until they're jammy and concentrated, then add a pinch of salt and garlic, and they'll be every bit as satisfying. The key is making sure whatever you fill them with isn't watery or it will seep into the potato dough.
Sauce, Toppings, and Final Thoughts
The bacon and sour cream sauce is non-negotiable—it's what makes cepelinai feel special and luxurious, and it's worth every minute of preparation. Some families serve them with a simple sour cream sauce and omit the bacon; others add a handful of crispy fried onions on top or a drizzle of rendered bacon fat. Fresh dill is almost always present because it cuts through the richness and brings brightness, but chives or parsley work too if that's what you have.
- Don't forget to salt your pasta water generously, just as you would for regular pasta; it seasons the dumplings from the outside in.
- Leftover dumplings can be refrigerated and reheated the next day by panfrying them in a little butter until the edges turn golden, which actually transforms them into something even better.
- If you're making these for a crowd, shape and cook them in advance, then reheat gently in the oven wrapped in foil so you can enjoy time with your guests instead of standing over a pot.
Save There's something about eating cepelinai that slows time down, that makes you want to sit at the table longer and linger over the last bite. They're humble and hearty, but they carry memory and care in every spoonful.
Recipe Questions & Answers
- → How do you prevent the dumplings from falling apart during cooking?
Squeezing out excess liquid from grated potatoes and incorporating some boiled mashed potatoes helps bind the dough firmly. Adding potato starch can further improve the structure.
- → What is the best way to shape the dumplings?
With wet hands, flatten a portion of dough, place the meat filling in the center, then carefully wrap the dough around to form an oval shape, sealing it completely to avoid leaks during cooking.
- → Can I substitute the meat filling with other ingredients?
Yes, using all pork or all beef works well. For a vegetarian option, sautéed mushrooms and onions make a delicious alternative filling.
- → How is the sauce prepared to complement the dumplings?
Frying diced bacon until crisp, then sautéing onions before mixing in sour cream and fresh dill creates a rich, creamy sauce that enhances the dumplings' flavor.
- → What cooking method is recommended for the dumplings?
Gently simmer the dumplings in salted water, avoiding rolling boils, until they float and feel firm, usually about 25 to 30 minutes.